Wednesday, July 06, 2005

On some positions, Cowardice asks the question, "Is it safe?" Expediency asks the question, "Is it politic?" And Vanity comes along and asks the question, "Is it popular?" But Conscience asks the question, "Is it right?" And there comes a time when one must take a position that is neither safe, nor politic, nor popular, but one must do it because Conscience tells him it is right.

MLK.

O B L is a taxi driver in Kolkatta nee Calcutta.

Just returned from a trip to Calcutta and am completely convinced of the ways and means of willfully losing oneself in that city. I don't think that Calcutta remains a megapolis anymore. Its just so dull and decaying, especially for someone like me, living in the glitz and glam of Bombay. But then there is just so much that lies beneath, in the underbelly of the city that a trip there remains a most amazing experience.

For instance, the absolute gastronomic delights which the city offers. The best biryani of the world at Aminia and the most delicious sweets at any corner joint. Rolls at Bedouin, or anywhere else. Sweets for 4 cost 39 rupees. Biryani for three costs 99, Chicken roll for 15.
For instance the deep culutral roots- some thing that Delhi doesn't even contend for and something that Bombay still seeks.
For instance being approached by pimps- twice, while your sister stands right next to you, being offered college girls at 1500 rupees, and being scolded by sis for sending out all the wrong signals. Wondering why I didn't read body language books.
For instance being tempted by the above, just to see what is like in this city of lost dreams.
For instance coming across the warmest people in the world. And for confusing warmth with nosiness- as is often our wont
For instance the slow idyllic boat ride on the Hooghly, early morning as a polluted smog crings to the water (water that is, water that was), but makes the sunrise seem like a psychedelic purpley-orange haze- perhaps remnants from the night before
For instance spotting a palatial house by the Hooghly, which having gracefully aged, is now begining to decay
For instance having the temerity to ask its possible price and knowing that it is not entirely unaffordable
For instance realizing that Some place Else... is as good an old English pub as any, and the people noisy in just the right way. And the music... oh the music is brilliant, unblemished and completely mind blowing!
For instance knowing that one doesn't always have to do just the right thing and say just the right words, in a place like this.
For instance being driven around in a taxi cab by a driver who looks like O B L. And who has a sticker just above the rear view mirror, hand written, in Arabic, and reads- Humare liye Allah hi bas hai. Think about- isn't it all that matters?
For instance being able to indulge in such fantasies and feel happy about the fact the world's most wanted man is actually at your beck and call. You can actually make him drive you to the nearest police station, without any one bothering.



And lastly, for realizing that while all this is really nice, unless we do some thing about it, this city will be lost, to time and its ruthless hands- knowing that there is only a fine line which separates the ageing and the decaying- and that its time that someone did something about it.

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